Saturday, January 10, 2009

More about bread

When we were teenagers, my friends and I loved to go to Georgetown. We could spend a whole afternoon going in and out of the boutiques looking at everything, talking about our likes and dislikes and never buying anything. Most of the shopkeepers probably hated us.
But it was also in Georgetown we discovered Sam the Argentinian Baker. Or Argentinian, Russian, Jewish baker. He was a wonderful, gentle, friendly, white haired, little man who had a small bakery, where only he and his wife worked. He made the best bread I have ever tasted- a round russian bread, which had a dark crisp crust with a moist whole grain bread inside the crust. When asked the secret he said that he used all the different grains. I have never been able to bake a bread that came close to his. He would always beg us not to eat the bread hot, because it was bad for your stomach he said. But of course we couldn't wait and would break off pieces of the warm bread. He also baked fantastic knishes.
I have discovered that one difference between European bread and American bread is that in America there is often honey, molasses or other sweetener in the bread. I never use these anymore. Sams bread was without any kind of sugar.

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Baking bread using the sponge method

Many years ago my sister sent me "The Tassajara Bread Book" by Edward Espe Brown. This book taught me to make bread by the sponge method. I gave the book to a friend over 10 years ago so this is my recipe and not necessarily the same as in the book but maybe it is. I love the sponge method because it's so easy to start a bread dough- no dirty hands, no kneeding, just mix everything together and let it stand. at least one hour but up to 24 hours. Often I have started my sponge in the evening and baked the next morning before work.
BREAD BY SPONGE METHOD
Sponge:
for one whole baking sheet of rolls (about 20) or one large loaf of bread or two smaller loaves
4 cups liquid. I use 2 cups buttermilk and 2 cups water. I heat my buttermilk and add cold water and then I have a liquid at room temperature.
Add 1 T. dry yeast
flour after choice so that the mixture is like porridge. I use oatmeal, rye flour and whole wheat flour. Mostly the first two at this stage. You can also add whole grains here. (I would soak them first)
Cover and let rise.
As I remember, the point of the sponge method is that the yeast develops best without salt, egg and oil which hamper its growth.
After at least one hour, (tho I always wait at least 2 hours) add olive oil (I use one large wooden spoonful which is 2-3 T) 1 T. salt and more flour to make a dough. I use whole wheat flour here. Kneed well and shape. I roll my rolls in poppy seeds or sesame seeds. Bake on a greased baking sheet. Cover with a dish towel and let rise ½ hour. Baste with water or with beaten egg. Bake ca. 30 min. at 350 F.
The varients in this recipe are what kind of liquid. Regular milk gives a more cake like bread. How much oil, which oil or melted butter for a cake like bread. Egg/eggs can be added in the second step. what kind of flour. I use all whole grain flour but white flour can be used in varying amounts for a lighter whiter bread.